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Natural Fiber Clothing: How to Choose Fabric to Sew

Natural fiber clothing: how to choose fabric to sew. Searchers looking for natural fiber clothing often want finished dresses and tops. This page is the sewist version: which natural fabric to buy by the yard, at what weight, for which garment. Fiber sets the hand. Weight sets what the fabric can support.

We look for distinctive prints, unique colorways, and fabrics that are always 100 percent natural, except in rare cases where less than 6 percent recycled spandex is included for additional stretch.

We sell fabric and notions, not finished apparel. We carry patterns in inclusive sizes and silhouettes, so every person can find something they are dying to make next.

Which natural fibers suit clothing

Natural fiber means the fabric is spun from a plant or an animal. Rayon and viscose sit in a gray area: plant-derived, heavily processed, and they behave more like a synthetic in the wash.

  • Cotton

    The everyday natural fiber: shirts, trousers, casual dresses, pyjamas. Poplin and shirting for crispness, lawn and voile for lightness, gauze for texture, mid-weight woven for structure. Best for wash-and-wear pieces. Watch for a hard crease, and for cheap cotton that pills where the body rubs.

  • Linen

    Cool, strong, and softer with every wash. Best for hot weather, wide-leg trousers, shirt dresses, and unlined jackets. Watch for wrinkles, fast fraying, and the most shrinkage of the common naturals.

  • Hemp and bast blends

    Stiff off the bolt and excellent after a handful of launderings, with a dry hand between linen and canvas. Best for sturdy tops, aprons, and bags. Do not judge the hand until it has been washed twice.

  • Cotton-linen and hemp-cotton blends

    Linen texture and breathability with cotton's easier care. Usually presses flatter and creases less than pure linen. Percentages matter. 20 percent linen behaves very differently from 55 percent linen.

  • Wool

    High warmth for its weight. Suiting wools tailor well. Wool gauze and challis drape softly. Best for cold-climate layers and tailored pieces. Felts with heat and agitation. Steam rather than press. Never tumble dry.

Weight by garment

A 90 GSM linen and a 260 GSM linen are barely the same material. Confirm against the pattern's recommended fabrics.

Suggested natural fiber fabric weights by garment type
GarmentWeightLook for
Blouse, camisole, gathered summer dress60 to 110 GSMCotton lawn, voile, double gauze, handkerchief linen
Shirt, shirt dress, pinafore, structured skirt110 to 160 GSMPoplin, shirting, quilting cotton, lightweight linen
Everyday trousers, wide-leg pants, overshirt160 to 250 GSMMid-weight linen, chambray, cotton twill, hemp blend
Jacket, apron, unlined outerwear, tote250 to 400 GSMCanvas, duck, heavy linen, denim

Match fiber to climate

  • Hot and dry: linen and loose hemp blends.
  • Hot and humid: cotton lawn, voile, and double gauze.
  • Temperate with air conditioning: mid-weight cotton and cotton-linen.
  • Cold: wool, brushed cotton, and stable wovens over a base layer.

How to choose yardage

  1. Match fiber to climate and how often you will wash the garment.
  2. Check width and pattern layout.
  3. Add about 10 percent for shrinkage. More for linen and rayon than for cotton.
  4. Prefer listings that publish fiber percent, weight, and care.
  5. Swatch when color or hand is uncertain.

For dress-specific drape and yardage, see sewing dresses with natural fibers. For buying mechanics, continuous cuts, dye lots, and returns, see buying fabric online.

Sewing natural fibers

Prewash and dry the way you will launder the finished garment, then press while slightly damp. Square the fabric to the grain before you lay out pattern pieces. An off-grain cut is why a side seam spirals around the leg.

Most indie patterns use a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) allowance for garments and 1/4 inch (6 mm) for patchwork. Check the pattern. Linen and loose-weave cotton fray quickly. Finish as you go: French seams on lightweight fabric, flat-felled on shirts and trousers, zigzag or overlock on everything else.

A universal 80/12 and all-purpose thread cover most cotton and mid-weight linen. Drop to 70/10 for lawn and voile. Step up to 90/14 for canvas and heavy linen. Switch the point only when the fabric actually stretches. Stitch length around 2.5 mm. Lengthen to 3 mm on thick fabric. Change the needle every project or two.

Browse needles by point and size →

Press every seam before it crosses another one. Use steam and a pressing cloth on linen to avoid shine. Let the piece cool flat so the crease sets.

Care

Linen softens and lightens. Cotton relaxes into the body. Hemp loses its board-like edge. Hot washes set stains and shrink fabric further. A hot dryer can turn a good linen shirt papery.

  • Wash cool and line dry where you can. Finish in the dryer briefly to soften.
  • Skip fabric softener on cotton and linen. It coats the fibers and reduces absorbency.
  • Mend early.
  • Store folded rather than hung for knitted and heavy pieces.

Questions

What fabric is best?
Cotton for everyday wash-and-wear. Linen for breathable summer garments. Hemp and bast blends for durable makes. Wool for cold weather. Cotton-linen mixes when you want easier care with a linen-like hand.
Is linen or cotton better for hot weather?
Linen, in most cases. It holds the fabric slightly away from the skin and moves moisture faster. Cotton wins when you want a smooth surface, a crisp press, or a garment that survives a tumble dryer.
Are natural fibers harder to sew than synthetics?
Generally easier. Cotton and linen grip each other, feed evenly, and hold a crease. Plan for shrinkage and fraying.
Does Kitschy Notions sell natural fiber clothing?
No. We sell fabric and notions for makers. If you want help matching a pattern to fabric, send the pattern, your size, and your climate.

Shop Fabric and colorful fabric

We sell fabric and notions, not finished apparel. We carry patterns in inclusive sizes and silhouettes, so every person can find something they are dying to make next.

Fabric →Colorful fabric by the yard →Tops & dresses fabric →Sewing patterns →

If the brief is still fuzzy, ask us for help with your pattern, size, and climate.

Dresses in natural fibers Reading fabric specs Tools for beginners